Greece 2019 – Cooking with Eleni

Every summer, I look forward to a cooking lesson with my cousin, Eleni Kostakos. Last year, we made κεφτέδες (keftedes, meatballs). This year, δολμάδες (dolmades, stuffed grape leaves) were on the menu. A google search will bring up dozens of recipes, but none are as good as Eleni’s.

Her grape leaves come from her brother’s vines and are picked when young and tender. She freezes them with no loss of flavor. Fresh, even frozen, leaves are infinitely better than the brined and salted ones which come in jars; but since I have to use jarred leaves, Eleni recommends boiling them to remove the salt and vinegar.

Frozen grape leaves, thawing at room temperature

Our first task is to cover the table with a laminated brown paper, which absorbs fluids and drips. Next, the meat mixture is prepared.

Ingredients 
1 kilo (2 pounds) ground beef
2 very large onions (Eleni used red onions)
3 eggs
1 can tomato paste (6 oz)
1 cup rice, rinsed
salt, pepper (no measurements)
dry mint (a handful, rubbed)
about 1/3-1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
fresh mint leaves

Fresh mint dot the grape leaves

Directions
1. Soak fresh mint in water.
2. Begin to separate grape leaves. Put a layer in the bottom of a casserole, add a few fresh mint leaves, then another layer of grape leaves and mint.
3. Put ground beef in large bowl.
4. Finely chop onions in a food processor. There should be absolutely no chunks! Add to meat along with tomato paste, eggs, oil, salt, pepper, dry mint and rice.
5. Mix, mix, mix by hand until everything is smooth and shiny. The oil acts like glue to hold the ingredients together. DO NOT use bread crumbs or other fillers.

Eleni measures the rice. Note the bowl on the left with meat ingredients, ready to be hand mixed.

When the meat is ready, the grape leaves are stuffed. This is a tricky process. When Eleni and her husband were owners of a taverna, her dolmades had to be picture-perfect. She showed me her method of folding the grape leaves around the meat and tucking the ends of the vines inside so there is an exact mitered angle. I tried and failed. So we did it the easy way–by putting the meat inside the leaves, folding in both ends, and rolling. I learned that the meat is put on the bottom side of the grape leaves (where you see the veins), so that the shiny and smooth side is visible after rolling.

Eleni rolls the dolmades. You can see that this “easy” method does not yield mitered ends.

My handiwork!

The rolled dolmades are carefully placed in the pot on top of the mint and vine leaves. Boiled water is poured over them, the pot is covered, and the dolmades simmer for one hour. If they start to open, put a plate over them. After one hour, drain the liquid from the pot and reserve.

Simmering on the stove

Now comes the lemon-egg sauce — the final touch that gives that unique flavor. Use four eggs and the strained juice of two large lemons. Beat the eggs at least five minutes until they are smooth and creamy. Add the lemon juice one Tablespoon at a time. Finally add about 1/2 cup hot liquid which had been drained from the pot. Pour the lemon-egg mixture over the dolmades and heat thoroughly. Don’t boil or the egg will curdle!

Lemon-egg sauce is added to the pot

Dolmades can be kept in the refrigerator for one week, and can be successfully frozen. Make a batch and enjoy with traditional Greek salad, olives, feta cheese and crusty bread. You will feel like you are in Sparta!

A perfect meal!

And next summer’s lesson? Γεμιστά, stuffed peppers and tomatoes ❤

Starting Anew: A New Citizen in a New Land

Becoming a citizen of a new country is an emotional and life-altering event. I saw this first hand on September 17, 2018 when I worked as a volunteer at a Naturalization Ceremony held at the National Archives in Washington. Thirty one new citizens from twenty-five countries renounced allegiance to their former homelands and pledged allegiance to the United States.

A new US citizen reviews the Oath of Allegiance she will recite

Prior to the ceremony, candidates met with officials of USCIS (U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services) to complete final paperwork and receive instructions on caring for their new Naturalization Certificate.

As we walked from the waiting room to the Archives Rotunda,  I sensed their anticipation as the end of a long process had finally arrived. I wondered what they were thinking–their thoughts for a new future here, their memories of their homeland and those left behind?

The Rotunda is ahead, and the end is near

The impressive Rotunda, home to our Charters of Freedom

Archivist David Ferreio and former ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy, greet the new citizens

Throughout this ceremony, I kept thinking of my grandfather, John Andrew Kostakos, and many others in my family who strode the path of citizenship. Although 84 years has passed since my grandfather took the Oath of Allegiance, I imagine that his feelings and experiences were similar to these new citizens. I know my grandfather took great pride in his citizenship. He rose from being a peasant orphan to becoming a restauranteur, real estate owner, and successful businessman.

John Andrew Kostakos, Declaration of Intention, 1931

John Andrew Kostakos, Petition for Citizenship 1933

John Andrew Kostakos, Certificate of Arrival, 1930

 

John Andrew Kostakos, Oath of Allegiance, 1934

John Andrew Kostakos, proud citizen of the USA

We who are native citizens simply cannot comprehend the impact of this experience and all that preceded it:  saying goodbye to loved ones; leaving the village (often for the first time) and traveling to a port (by walking? donkey ride?); perhaps working for a few months at the port city to obtain funds for the journey and to have enough money to enter the U.S. (at least $50); the boat ride across the Atlantic; the Ellis Island arrival experience; connecting with friends and/or family in the U.S., finding work; deciding to become a citizen; going through the vigorous process of paperwork and exams; and finally raising the right hand to swear allegiance to a new land.

Whether then or now, the process requires grit and determination. Those who embark upon and complete this task exhibit strength and fortitude. They do this not only to  improve their own lives, but also to  ensure that their posterity will reap the blessings of their decision. Thank you, papou.

Family of John and Hariklia Aridas Kostakos, 1930. l-r standing: Frieda, Andrew, Pauline, Georgia. Seated: Hariklia, Alice, John

 

Cooking with Eleni

Greek food is the absolute best. Using the freshest of ingredients, locally-grown products, aromatic herbs and tangy spices, there is nothing that compares to this harbinger of the Mediterranean diet. Every Greek woman has her own way of making traditional recipes–those “secret” tips that make her cuisine unique.

And this especially applies to my cousin, Eleni Koniditsiotis Kostakos, born in Amykles and now residing in Agios Ioannis. Because I offered to help one afternoon as she was preparing dinner, I finally, finally learned her secret to making meatballs that are soft yet firm.

The secret ingredient? Olive oil in the meat. It provides the “glue” to hold the meat, bread crumbs and other ingredients together and to keep the meatballs from falling apart.

Making the mixture; notice the puree of red onion and garlic

In this bowl are (no measurements): ground beef, dry bread crumbs as well as stale bread which has been rolled between our hands to make crumbs, a puree of garlic and red onions (this prevents chunks which cause the meatballs to crack), eggs, salt, pepper, basil and cumin. I was surprised that there was no oregano, but I might try adding some. And of course, olive oil. Lots of it! Squish everything together and start rolling the meatballs. I was surprised at how smooth they were, and that’s the secret to keep them from falling apart while cooking.

Next step: fry in lots of extra-virgin Greek olive oil! They are delicious served as-is, or in a homemade tomato sauce.

Speaking of olive oil, there is nothing like fresh-pressed oil found in every Greek home. Eleni’s family, like most in Sparta, have olive trees. The olives are beginning to grow now, and are harvested in early winter, November-December.

Baby olives

The harvest is a task that is done by hand, not machine, and the entire family works together. Preparation begins early. Last week, Eleni washed the nets which are spread under the trees to catch the fruit. She then stretched them out to dry.

Washing the olive nets

 

Drying the olive nets

Every village has a processing plant where the oil is extracted; smaller settlements will bring their olives to the closest one. Families keep enough for their own use and may sell their surplus. I love Eleni’s olives. Unlike those sold in stores, hers are not kept in brine, but are packed in oil which makes them sweet, not bitter.

Eleni’s olives and oil. You can tell by the dark green color that this oil is the first-press, or extra virgin.

Now I have to figure out how to get bottles like these home!

Andreas Kostakos: Hiding in Plain Sight

How many years does one search to find a record–any record–that proves the existence of a great-grandfather? At what point does a  “reasonable” researcher give up?

As a researcher (the reasonable part is questionable) and an eternal optimist, my answer is: never! Never, never, never give up. Newly found and newly digitized records are becoming available continuously; social media is bringing together people who collaborate and help each other; DNA is expanding the “cousin” pool.

All of these stars aligned in the sky to bring forth documentation for my great-grandfather, Andreas Kostakos.

Andreas, I have now learned, was born in 1809 in Agios Ioannis (St. Johns), Sparta, Laconia, Greece. Andreas had two wives, Anastasia–by which he had perhaps six sons, only one of whose descendants we know; and Poletimi Christakos–by which he had five additional children including my grandfather, Ioannis (John). This is the only family photo of my grandfather, Ioannis with my grandmother, Hariklia Aridas Kostakos and their children. My father, Andrew, was the oldest.

l-r standing: Frieda, Andrew, Pauline, Georgia. Seated: Hariklia, Alice, John

Family of Ioannis Andreas Kostakos, about 1930, Brooklyn, New York. l-r standing: Frieda, Andrew (my father), Pauline, Georgia. Seated: Hariklia, Alice, Ioannis.

For years, I have looked for records for Andreas in Agios Ioannis and surrounding villages of Sparta. I sent letters to the Archives in Sparta (excellent support but no Andreas Kostakos found) and the Mayor’s office (no response). Three years ago, my friend and research companion, Gregory Kontos, introduced me to the Election Registers online at the Digital Collection of the Greek Archives. These Registers were created in every village to record the names of men who were at least 21 years old and eligible to vote. The Registers from 1872 are typewritten and easy to read. The older ones, which can date back to 1844, are handwritten and almost indecipherable to a non-native reader.

That collection was my first initiation into trying to read old Greek handwriting. This is not for the faint-hearted, but it is possible. Over the years, I have learned to read some modern Greek writing but the older script is downright intimidating. I never went back to look at the Ladas collection. Until yesterday.

My friend and historian/researcher, Giannis Michalakakos, was working on a genealogy case for a client whose roots were from a village near Sparta. While reviewing the Lada Election Lists for 1844, he saw an entry that he knew was my family. Imagine my shock – joy – disbelief when he called and said that he found the name “Kostakos, And” in Agios Ioannis! My hands were actually trembling when I clicked on this link that took me to the page for file 22, image 99, line 1205: http://arxeiomnimon.gak.gr/browse/resource.html?tab=tab02&id=13499&start=80

General Archives of Greece, Election Material from the Collection of Lada (1844), File 22 - village of Agios Ioannis File 22, Image 99; Line 1205, Year of Record: 1844, Last name: Kostakos; First name: And.; Male; Age 35; How long lived in the village/resident: αυτόχθων aftochon (indigenous) is from Agios Ioannis; Has money or property? Yes; Occupation: landowner.

General Archives of Greece, Election Material from the Collection of Lada (1844), File 22 – village of Agios Ioannis.  File 22, Image 99; Line 1205, Year of Record: 1844, Last name: Kostakos; First name: And.; Male; Age 35; How long lived in the village/resident: αυτόχθων aftochon (indigenous) is from Agios Ioannis; Has money or property? Yes; Occupation: landowner.

On line 1205 is the entry for “And. Kostakos,” age 35:

File 22, Image 99, Line 1205

File 22, Image 99, Line 1205

Giannis and I agreed that “And” was the abbreviation for “Andrew.” His age is listed as 35 in 1844, which puts his birth year at 1809–within two years of a “guess-timate” I had calculated years ago. The 6th column records the length of time the individual was a resident of the village. Andreas is listed as being αυτόχθοω (aftochon) which means “indigenous.” Giannis explained that Andreas, as indigenous, was in Agios Ioannis from the beginning of the existence of the state, i.e., since Greece became an independent nation after the Revolution of 1821.

During my trip to Sparta in 2014, Gregory and I had visited the Greek Orthodox Church Mitropolis of Sparta to research in marriage records. Amazingly, we found, in the Index Book of Marriages, the entry for Andreas and Poletimi who were married on August 20, 1860. This was the first “official” document that proved Andreas actually existed. Unfortunately, it did not give the ages of the couple; thus, the newly-found Election Register has provided definitive information on Andreas’ birth year and birth place.

Mitropolis of Sparta, Index of Marriages, Number 125, Date: August 20, 1860; Andreas Kostakos of Agios Ioannis and Poletimi, daughter of Nikolaos Christakos of Xirokambi, Faridos.

Mitropolis of Sparta, Index of Marriages, Number 125, Date: August 20, 1860; Andreas Kostakos of Agios Ioannis and Poletimi, daughter of Nikolaos Christakos of Xirokambi, Faridos.

But this new record raises a new research challenge:  years ago, my elderly aunt, a descendant of Andreas and Anastasia, told me that Andreas came to the Sparta region from “Pyrgos over the mountains” after the 1821 Revolution to find work (see prior post). That comment had shifted my research focus from Laconia to Messinia, the location of Pyrgos Lefktro–a village which is literally over the Taygetos mountains. My hunt so far has not yielded a Kostakos family; yet, even if I find one I cannot know if the Kostakos is related to me.  Kostakos is a patronymic name (Kost-akos literally means son of Kostas); many surnames evolved from patronymics; and there are untold numbers of men named Kostas/Konstandinos in the southern Peloponnese. I hope that DNA will be the next link to connect me with “lost” branches of my family.

Research results? Many years, many efforts.

Without the help of Giannis and Gregory, my research would remain stalled.

Without the digitization of the Election Lists, my research would remain stalled.

Without social media and DNA connections, my research would remain stalled.

Whenever I become frustrated in this quest, I take a step back and look at the totality of the situation: there was no “Greece” during 400 years of Turkish occupation; in the late 1800’s, a new government was being created; life was predominantly rural; people were largely illiterate; recordkeeping was, at best, rudimentary. In retrospect, it is quite amazing that any records have survived. It is encouraging that some have been digitized and are now online.

I continue to have faith that, if there is a written document to prove the existence of of one of my ancestors, at some point in time–with the help of a friend, with the discovery of a new record collection, through a DNA connection–it will find its way to me.

 

Return to Greece, 2016. Part Six: It’s All About Family

This is the sixth post in a series about my trip to Greece, June 30-July 20, 2016 — an amazing journey of history, family and discovery. Previous posts can be found here.

Open arms with tight hugs. Kisses on both cheeks. Happy smiles and joyful reunions. This is how my family greets me when I return to Sparta. There are so many places to explore and discover; but for me this is the bottom line:  it’s all about family. Prior to my visits to Greece, the names and places on my pedigree chart were simply long names and dots on a map. Now, they are attached to real people who have become a vibrant and important part of my extended family.

Joy is sharing what you love with whom you love. For me, joy is introducing my family to their roots — touring our villages and meeting our relatives. Kathy’s paternal grandparents are Kallianes from Kastania (now Kastoreion) and Linardakis from Vordonia. Although we don’t know of family now living there, we so enjoyed exploring the towns, peering into shops, watching chickens, dogs and cats roam their yards, and looking at stone and stucco houses that have sheltered countless families through countless years.

Kastoreion, Laconia. July 2016

Kastoreion, Laconia. ancestral village of the Kallianes family, July 2016

Vordonia, Laconia, July 2016

Andrew, Ben and Kathy at the Linardakis village of Vordonia, Laconia, July 2016

I love the monuments erected in every town that memorialize those who died in military service. My heart skips whenever I find an ancestral name etched in marble. Even if I cannot connect that individual to my line, I know that in these small villages, people with the same surname are almost certain to be related. While driving in Vordonia, we turned into a back street and unexpectedly were confronted by the village monument. stopping to examine it, I became emotional when I showed Ben and Andrew several men with the Linardakis surname.

Finding the Linardakis surname; Vordonia, July 2016

Finding the Linardakis surname; Vordonia, July 2016

Visiting our Aridas and Kostakos familes in Agios Ioannis has endeared my grandchildren to their Spartan relatives and grounded them to the land of their ancestors. Bridging the Atlantic and meeting kin has widened their concept of family. Eating a meal in a house built by their ancestor in the mid-1800’s has brought them a sense of “rootedness” that is unparalleled. And best of all, they were warmly embraced and loved immediately by all who met them.

These are photos of my Kostakos and Aridas family in Agios Ioannis, Sparta. They are on my father’s side — my grandparents were John Andrew (Ioannis Andreas) Kostakos and Hariklia Aridas, both born in Agios Ioannis. On the Kostakos side, our common ancestor is Andreas Kostakos who was married twice: first to Anastasia, then to Poletimi Christakos. These two Kostakos families are descended from Andreas and Anastasia; I am descended from Andreas and Poletimi. On the Aridas line, our common ancestor is Michail Aridas and his wife, Stamatina.

Ioanna Kostakos Family, with Ben Soper, Andrew Soper, Kathy Lynard, Carol Kostakos Petranek, Peggy and Vassilis Vlachogiannis, Agios Ioannis, July 2016

Family of Ioanna Kostakos of Agios Ioannis. With Ben Soper, Andrew Soper, Kathy Lynard, Carol Kostakos Petranek, Peggy and Vassilis Vachaviolis, and Ioanna Kostakos, July 2016

family-kostakos-eleni-group-07-13

Family of Eleni Kostakos of Agios Ioannis. Natasa, Panos, Eleni, Eleni, Panorea, Carol Kostakos Petranek, July 2016

Family of George Aridas, Agios Ioannis. George, Roula, Adamandia Aridas; George's sister, Afroditi. July 2016

Family of George Aridas, Agios Ioannis. George, Roula, Adamandia Aridas; George’s sister, Afroditi. July 2016

This is the Chelidonis Family of Athens. Nikos is my second cousin on my mother’s line. His mother was Tasia Eftaxia from Mystras; our common ancestor is Ioannis Eftaxias, born 1809. My grandmother, Angelina Eftaxias Papagiannakos, was Tasia’s aunt. Panagiotis found me on Facebook three years ago, and we met in person during my trip in 2014. We were so excited to connect our families, as neither of us knew that the other existed!

Family if Nikos Chelidonis, Athens. Viki, Nikos, Panagiotis. July 2016

Family if Nikos Chelidonis, Athens. Viki, Nikos, Panagiotis. July 2016

The Eftaxias family of Mystras has long roots in Mystras. My grandmother, Angelina Eftaxias is the aunt of Andreas (photo on left). Andreas’ son, Lewnidas, is a master stone mason and works on churches and other buildings throughout southern Laconia.

Andreas Eftaxias, his son. Lewnidas ad Afroditi. Mystras, July 2016

Andreas Eftaxias, his son. Lewnidas ad Afroditi. Mystras, July 2016

Lewnidas and Andreas told me that our first Eftaxias ancestor escaped from Constantinople during the Ottoman conquest in 1453! He and three friends fled together and settled in Mystras. Lewnidas showed me a bronze medallion that was brought by this ancestor and kept by the family for generations. I posted this photo on our HellenicGenealogyGeek Facebook page and knowledgeable friends there described the medallion: l-r: Christ on the cross; Byzantine cross with words, ” Ιησούς Χριστός Νικά”; the Holy Mother, Mary; and the Holy Trinity, possibly based on Rublev‘s painting of the same name.

Medallion dating to 1453, belonging to Eftaxias family; Mystras, July 2016

Medallion dating to 1453, belonging to Eftaxias family; Mystras, July 2016

I was so thrilled to extend my family further on this trip. My new-found cousin, Dimitrios Papagiannakos, and his wife, Georgia, own a beautiful home goods store in Sparta which sells a myriad of items from cooking utensils to beautiful crystal. I think I gave Dimitrios quite a shock when I walked into his store and introduced myself as his cousin from America! I had brought photos of his Pappas family in the U.S., including a group shot taken at our Pappas Cousin’s Reunion. Working around his customers, we managed to have a spirited and lovely conversation about our families. My only regret was that his parents were out of town and I was unable to meet them. Next trip!

papagiannakos-store-collage

Dimitrios and Georgia Papagiannakos in their lovely home goods store, Sparta, July 2016

I also traveled to Markopoulos, northeast of Athens, to meet Vassilis Papagiannakos, owner of the Papagiannakos Winery. The winery was started by his grandfather, also named Vassilis, in 1919. Now managed by the 3rd generation of Papagiannakos’, Vassilis and his wife, Antonia, have expanded the business, developed new and award-winning wines, and constructed a beautiful edifice where business events, weddings and other activities are held. Although Vassilis and I do not know how–or if– we are related, we are looking to explore our family roots together.

papagiannakos-winery-collage

Vassilis and Antonia Papagiannakos and their daughter, Aggeliki. Papagiannakos Winery, Markopoulos, July 2016

Every trip to Greece strengthens my family ties. I love these cousins. They set an example of hard work, honesty and devotion to our family and our heritage. I am ever-grateful to have the means and the opportunity to introduce them to my own descendants. Together, we carry on traditions and relationships that honor our ancestors.