Tag Archives: Festival

Greece 2019 – From Dark to Light

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How to wrap my brain around horror and joy — two diametrically opposed emotions — experienced one hour apart? That is what I am struggling with tonight. My cousin, Panorea, and I share a love of history and this evening, we attended a lecture and film on the 100 year commemoration of the Pontic genocide. This was the ruthless and systematic killing of Christians and Greeks in the region of the Black Sea in 1919 by the Ottomans. Over 343,000 were massacred.

The speaker authored a book and produced a documentary on this topic, based on the oral histories of survivors and their families. The film portrayed the story of one of the survivors and his escape from the genocide. Among the scenes was a small group of Ottomans playing musical instruments and walking through villages; as they played, their leader shot everyone in sight. Killing to the sound of music? That is beyond barbaric. In another scene, the escapee hid under a bale of hay in a field. He saw a fellow Greek passing by on a donkey, and ran to him for help. Hesitant, the rescuer asked the escapee to recite the Lord’s Prayer and the Orthodox creed. When he did, the two embraced and the escapee was given food, companionship and a path to freedom. This scene portrayed how the Orthodox religion was the major factor in binding and sustaining Greeks through foreign oppression.

Although the lecture and film were in Greek, I understood enough to feel physically ill. The cruelty of men towards others, strictly based on ethnicity and religion, is humanity’s darkest side. Bishop Eustathios of the Metropolis of Monemvasia and Sparta, gave concluding remarks. We must always remember the innocent and not forget. Yet we must forgive as Christ taught.

We left the lecture with somber hearts to meet Panorea’s family at–of all things–a panegyri (festival) at the village church of Amykles. Music, dancing, food, laughter, friendship–all hallmarks of these joyful events–enveloped us as we entered the church platea. I saw tables filled with hundreds of people enjoying life and embracing the moment.

We arrived too late to see the traditional dancing, but early enough to enjoy souvlaki and music.

As I watched children play soccer and adults wait for food, my heavy heart lightened a bit.

This is our time to live. Trials await and challenges lurk. We face provocations our ancestors could not conceive. Those who lost their lives in innocence will never be forgotten in Greece–or hopefully elsewhere.

We move from dark to light and back again, sometimes on an hourly basis. But I trust, and know, that light will always prevail.

Πανηγύρι (Panegyri) – It’s Time for Village Festivals

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Music, dancing, food and friends–the perfect combination for a festive summer evening. This is panegyri  time and posters announcing village festivals are found everywhere.

Agios Ioannis, July 14, 2018

Each village has a church, and each church is named after a saint. Thus, each village holds its panegyri at the time of the church saint’s nameday or, if the nameday falls during a colder month, the festival is held in spring or summer. I attended panegyris in Amykles, Theologos and Agios Ioannis–three ancestral villages.

The photos and videos below depict the pure enjoyment of these festivities.

AGIOS IOANNIS (Sparta)

This is my “home village” — birthplace of three of my grandparents: Andreas  Kostakos, Hariklia Aridas, and Ilias Papagiannakos. I attended its panegyri with my cousins, Eleni and Panorea Kostakos. Eleni was anxious to arrive early as she was concerned that we would not get a table. When we walked into the platea (town square) at 8:00, I thought her worries were not valid as the area was empty. That is, until I saw that people had “reserved” their places by scrawling their names across the paper tablecloths!

The Georgiades family has marked its spot!

Eleni (left) and Panorea Kostakos are holding our table; I wrote our surname on the cloth

Food vendors worked throughout the evening. The tantalizing smell of souvlaki, roasted corn, smoked ham and Greek desserts enticed long lines of hungry partygoers.

Souvlaki, the staple of Spartan diets

Roasted and smoked ham

Panorea in the dessert line

Live music, singers and dancing brought villagers together to celebrate their heritage and their village.

Traditional Greek music enhances the festivities

And of course, there is dancing!

The platea quickly filled to capacity as families and friends table-hopped. The decibel level of voice and music increased significantly as the night progressed.

The platea is filled

THEOLOGOS

This is the village of my great-grandmother, Stathoula Zaharakis, daughter of Dimitrios Zaharakis of Theologos and Giannoula Zarafonitis of Amykles. Situated 6 km straight up a mountain, it is quaint and beautiful.

Theologos nestled in the mountains

Me, under the sprawling tree of the Theologos platea.

Last year, my cousin, Georgia Zaharakis, organized a Women’s Syllogos of Theologos to preserve and maintain the culture and heritage of the village and I joined their sisterhood. On July 8, the syllogos held a panegyri.  I offered to help and was given the job of working with the tech crew. Being part of this was great fun, even though I scrambled to keep up with instructions given in rapid-fire Greek.

The technical crew, going over last minute details: l-r: Vassilis, Dimitra, Georgia.

The theme was centered on the grain harvest and making of bread. Video, literary readings and bread-making demonstrations brought the “feast of wheat” to life.

Village women demonstrate bread making

Over 300 people attended; the platea filled throughout the night

Women in traditional costumes, led by Vassilis Andronis, performed dances from all over the country.

And of course, the entire village also joined in!

The news media picked up this story; video and photos can be found here.

AMYKLES

The ancient and historic village of Amykles was the home of my great-grandmother, Giannoula Zarafonitis. I visited Amykles early in my trip and wrote a post here. The syllogos of Amykles held a festival on June 3 to raise money to help the poor.

Invitation to Amykles festival, June 3, 2018

Under the shadow of the church, people congregated. A choir sang, and costumed men and women danced.

Amykles Panegyri

Amykles choir

Men and women engage in traditional dance

These panegyris are an important part of the social fabric of Greece. Villagers are extremely proud of their Laconian heritage and the traditions of their village. As I joined these festivals, I remembered that I was participating in the same rituals as my grandparents and great-grandparents. Doing so is one of the joys of “going home.”

 

 

 

Mini-Classes at a Festival!

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Greek festivals are all about food, dancing, and fun–not the usual venue for genealogy lectures. But, during its Festival last weekend, the Annunciation Cathedral in Baltimore, Maryland offered its visitors and parishioners something different–mini-classes (20-30 minutes) about beginning Greek genealogy. I was honored to be invited to give these presentations.

This idea came from the directors of the Hellenic Heritage Museum and Archives of Maryland, an organization working to document and preserve the rich Greek heritage in Baltimore.

Part of the Museum’s exhibit for the Festival included photos of early Baltimore Greek families; and a brief talk about “Finding Your Yiayia” fit perfectly with the theme. Joining me was Antigoni Ladd of Westminster, Maryland, who spearheaded a project to document the founding families of Westminster:

I had a lot to cover in 30 minutes: U.S. documents that may reveal a family’s original surname and village of origin; what types of documents are found in Greek Archives and Town Halls and how to access them; Orthodox Church records; planning a research trip. During conferences, each of these topics take a full hour. But I talked fast and provided attendees with a two-page handout with links to the most relevant websites. This handout can be downloaded here.

I gave five presentations over three days; about 50 people attended in total. They ranged in age and area of origin. Several had families from Asia Minor; some from the Peloponnese; some from the islands. But all were surprised and delighted to learn that records do exist and are accessible.

These are some of the family photos brought by parishioners to honor their ancestors.

Nicholas Prevas, who has been the official historian of the Annunciation Cathedral since he was 20 years old, wrote two extensive histories of the Cathedral and has been lauded as setting the standard for such works.

Nicholas Prevas with a display featuring his book, House of God…Gateway to Heaven

Every year, Nicholas creates an outstanding display of photos and documents to honor Baltimore Greek families. This display is replaced annually with new items and a new theme. These beautiful cases line the hallway leading to the chapel where they are enjoyed by thousands of people throughout the year.

Greek festivals are a source of enjoyment for the entire community. I stood in a food line behind a young man from the neighborhood who said that he waits all year for the food and music. Churches depend on festivals to bring in revenue and to enhance regional relationships. This year, Panos from kantyli.com traveled from Chicago to set up a vendor table with items that were popular and fun.

Greek road signs, created by Panos at kantyli.com

Of course, I had to get one from Sparta! In the box on the table are keychains with names written in Greek.

And what is a festival without dancing and music? These brightly costumed children stole the show.

I hope that the idea of holding mini-classes during Festivals catches on. It’s a low-key and easy way to introduce people to the basics, and to broaden their perspectives on family history. The jovial environment and ethnic surroundings provide the perfect backdrop for enhancing a desire to learn more about our heritage.