Visiting the Villages: Gytheio

Picturesque Gytheio is much more than just a lovely port village. Considered the port of Sparta (located 47 km south of the city), its location on the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese made it an ideal departure point for emigrants leaving Lakonia in the early 20th century.

Greeks who were seeking opportunities abroad needed to get to major ports in southern Europe: Piraeus, LeHavre, Hamburg, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Cherbourg and others. They would walk or take donkey carts from their homes to a local port. From there, they would board a small boat (caique) which would transport them to one of the transatlantic departure ports. Gytheio was the closest port to those from southeast Lakonia, yet it drew people from all regions of the Peloponnese.

All four of my grandparents left their villages near Sparta and came to America between 1897-1920. Although I have their ship manifests from their major ports of departures, I don’t know how they got from their homes to that port (how wish I knew!). I surmise that at least some of them traveled first to Gytheio.

The name, Gythion (Γύθειον) means “Γη των θεών” (land of gods); γύον (γη) = land (location) and θεός = god (according to an ancient legend, this refers to the gods Herakles and Apollo). A port city from ancient times, it was founded by the Spartans in the 5th century BC and played a crucial role in Sparta’s maritime, commerce and trade activities. Shipbuilding was a major industry. Throughout the eras, the port prospered as it served as a crucial sea route and harbored ships that crossed the Mediterranean. See this reference for further historical information.

Along with the rest of Greece, Gytheio eventually came under Frank, Venetian and Ottoman rule. The Venetians fortified the town and constructed a castle to protect it from pirate raids.

The tower of Tzanetakis, built 1829

Today, Gytheio teems with tourists and natives who seek its beauty and its sea. Nearby beaches such as Mavrovrouni are filled in summer months.

When in Gytheio, I can’t help but wonder what it was like for my grandparents who left their villages. Their journey must have been both exciting and terrifying, and I honor them for their determination and bravery. I come to Gytheio not only to decompress and relax, but also to view the sea that my ancestors may have experienced for the very first time on their journey to a new land.

3 thoughts on “Visiting the Villages: Gytheio

  1. Amazing to try to see what their world was like. Understanding their need to leave is often heartbreaking. My parents are from Skoura-Varvitsa….both villages used…mountains in summer.

    Skoura about 8 miles from Sparti. Never asked Papa how he got to the ocean liner that brought him to NYC in 1920. My Mama and yiayia came in that time frame also.

    My first visit in 1959 showed how desperate those villages were and gave me a glimpse of life without. No electricity. No running water. Poor roads. BUT the serenity and love overshadowed all that and showed me why Papa loved it there so much. Soon to visit again. 🙏

    Sent from my iPhone

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    • I hope you can return soon. The rural villages that remain inhabited are charming and the homes are modernized inside. It saddens me that so many villages, especially those high in the mountains, are now deserted. The peace which you felt still remain…

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