Tag Archives: Gytheio

Visiting the Villages: Gytheio

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Picturesque Gytheio is much more than just a lovely port village. Considered the port of Sparta (located 47 km south of the city), its location on the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese made it an ideal departure point for emigrants leaving Lakonia in the early 20th century.

Greeks who were seeking opportunities abroad needed to get to major ports in southern Europe: Piraeus, LeHavre, Hamburg, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Cherbourg and others. They would walk or take donkey carts from their homes to a local port. From there, they would board a small boat (caique) which would transport them to one of the transatlantic departure ports. Gytheio was the closest port to those from southeast Lakonia, yet it drew people from all regions of the Peloponnese.

All four of my grandparents left their villages near Sparta and came to America between 1897-1920. Although I have their ship manifests from their major ports of departures, I don’t know how they got from their homes to that port (how wish I knew!). I surmise that at least some of them traveled first to Gytheio.

The name, Gythion (Γύθειον) means “Γη των θεών” (land of gods); γύον (γη) = land (location) and θεός = god (according to an ancient legend, this refers to the gods Herakles and Apollo). A port city from ancient times, it was founded by the Spartans in the 5th century BC and played a crucial role in Sparta’s maritime, commerce and trade activities. Shipbuilding was a major industry. Throughout the eras, the port prospered as it served as a crucial sea route and harbored ships that crossed the Mediterranean. See this reference for further historical information.

Along with the rest of Greece, Gytheio eventually came under Frank, Venetian and Ottoman rule. The Venetians fortified the town and constructed a castle to protect it from pirate raids.

The tower of Tzanetakis, built 1829

Today, Gytheio teems with tourists and natives who seek its beauty and its sea. Nearby beaches such as Mavrovrouni are filled in summer months.

When in Gytheio, I can’t help but wonder what it was like for my grandparents who left their villages. Their journey must have been both exciting and terrifying, and I honor them for their determination and bravery. I come to Gytheio not only to decompress and relax, but also to view the sea that my ancestors may have experienced for the very first time on their journey to a new land.

Greece 2019 – Saturday in Mani

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Digitizing the village church books of Laconia is both a privilege and a huge task. Having time on weekends to enjoy the sun and beauty of the land is both a delight and a necessity.  Yesterday, I drove to the port town of Gytheio, 45 minutes south of Sparta, to visit friends, Dina and Christina.

Along the waterfront of Gytheio

Mavrovouni Beach is adjacent to the town where locals and tourists can relax. There are many cottages, guest houses and hotels. The aquamarine water is perfectly clear.  I came here several times last year, as well, just to unwind and breathe clear air.

Mavrovouni Beach

After a relaxing afternoon, the three of us drove to Aeropoli and Limeni in the Mani region of southern Laconia. There is no place like Aeropoli, a village of stone, with its distinctive Maniate tower architecture and gloried history. The Greek Independence Revolution began here on March 17, 1821. Today, it lures people with its unique character and charm. For me, it is a must to spend time here every summer.

A street in Aeropoli, Mani

Storefront on the main street, Aeropoli, Mani

Market in Aeropoli, Mani

Frescoe inside one of the oldest churches in Aeropoli

The drive from Aeropoli to Limeni is less than 10 minutes. The winding road around the mountains provides spectacular views of the sea below.

The road to Limeni

This church is a point of interest on the road, but last night the slant of the sun was low and for the first time, I noticed that the windows around the dome are blue! This illumination produced an ethereal light in the sacred building.

The fading sun illuminates the blue windows and creates an ethereal and heavenly light around the dome

We reached Limeni at sunset. This is one of the loveliest places in Mani at anytime of day, but especially so when night is about to fall. The glow of the fading sun casts a golden light upon the stone buildings, producing a glow which is breathtaking.

Entering Limeni

Evening in Limeni

Homes nestled around the harbor

The rugged precipices of Mani are counterbalanced by the softness of sunset. The mountains and seas are enveloped in gold as another day passes and the beauty of the land waits to be rediscovered tomorrow.

Goodnight, Limeni

R&R: Gytheio

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Rest and relaxation — time to get out of Sparta! After 2-1/2 weeks of long and tedious days handling dirty and moldy old documents, my body screamed for sun and surf. So I went where the locals go, south to Gytheio. It’s only 40 kilometers but a world away.

Homes on the hillside overlook the harbor, Gytheio, June 2018

Gytheio is the capital of Mani and the second largest city in Laconia.

Archaeological findings date Gytheio to ancient, even prehistoric, times. It has served as an important port for Sparta and the entire southern Peloponnese. Merchant ships bring in goods from foreign lands and take out olive oil and other products.

Boats moored in the harbor of Gytheio, June 2018

This city is a haven for tourists. I met people from the Netherlands and Germany, and I spotted several Americans. Sometimes when I speak Greek in public, people answer me in English. I once asked my friend, Giannis, why is it that people don’t think I am Greek–after all, I am a full-blooded Spartan and I was speaking the language. He replied that it is obvious that I am American. I thought that was an odd response until today, when it was easy to pick out Americans among native Greeks and Europeans, and they were not wearing jeans, white sneakers or tee shirts! Maybe we emanate a certain aura?

This is a fish-lovers’ haven, and fresh octopus was hanging everywhere, but not for me.

Not for me!

The city’s neoclassical buildings provide charming sophistication. Each one is distinct and different. The colors blend beautifully and give Gytheio its distinct look.  A lover of architecture could spend days here.

Each building is charming and unique.

As I wandered along the waterfront, I noticed a lighthouse situated on a promontory.

This point of land is actually the Kranai islet, connected to the city by a concrete walkway. It led to beautiful and surprising things!

A tiny church (of course!)

A fortress / castle / tower! This is the Tzanetakis Tower, built in 1829 by General Tzanetakis Grigorakis, who was one of the leading figures of the Grigorakis family of Eastern (Lower) Mani and a hero of the 1821 Revolution. One can only imagine what this building has witnessed. Its position on the island gives it a perfect view of the harbor and the city. The family continues to be prominent in contemporary Greece, and donated this tower to the government. It is now a museum but unfortunately was not open.

Tzanetakis Tower, Gytheio, June 2018

The tower commands a perfect view of the harbor and city.

The lighthouse looks fairly new, but the structures adjacent to it testify that a look-out building on this point has been in place for centuries.

Old and new, standing as sentinels to the harbor

As I sat on a rock and absorbed the spirit of this place, I noticed an unusual round, stone circular structure at the edge of the water–obviously historic and meaningful, but unknown.

Ancient, but unknown – obviously important

I sat for a long time, taking in the sea, the view and the history. I wonder: what was life like for people living here in the 1700’s, 1800’s and even before. This is a land of rock and stone. There were pirates patrolling the seas, invasions by Turks, Venetians and others; there were vendettas among families and wars among clans. And of course, there were other harsh realities of life and the forces of nature–all combined to make Mani a very difficult place in which to exist.

But countering all this is the sea. And today, Mani’s beaches draw people worldwide who seek respite from the challenges of their own lives. Spending an afternoon in this environment of serenity and beauty is rejuvenating and refreshing.

Mavrovouni Beach

This day was so very needed by my body and soul. A dip into history and a dip into the sea. I’m now ready to get back to work next week!