Return to Greece, 2016. Part One: Athens

This iAcropolis flag 07-01s the first in a series of posts about my trip to Greece, June 30-July 20, 2016 — an amazing journey of history, family and discovery. This trip builds upon the research I conducted during my previous visit in 2014; those posts can be read here.  

The Acropolis never fails to move me. Through its 2,500 year history, the structures (Parthenon, Erechtheion, Propylaia, and temple of Athena Nike) have stood as beacons of majesty and edifices of glory.

Acropolis, July 2016

Acropolis, July 2016

I am beyond thrilled to have the opportunity to bring my Greek grandchildren to the land of their ancestors. My daughter, Kathy, joined me as she did in 2014. Last time, we took her daughters, Elli and Christine; this time we brought her older sons, Ben and Andrew.

l-r: Carol Kostakos Petranek, Kathryn Lynard, Ben Soper, Andrew Soper, July 2016

l-r: Carol Kostakos Petranek, Kathryn Lynard, Ben Soper, Andrew Soper, July 2016

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l-r: Ben Soper, Kathy Lynard, Andrew Soper, July 2016

Although it was just two years ago that I stood on these grounds, I was elated to return and absorb the spirit that radiates from every column and piece of marble. I feel the “collective unconscious” of this land (Joseph Conrad, Heart of Darkness); the pride of the Greek people; their triumphs, defeats and revivals.

Immersion in history is comprehending the timelessness of the human experience; connecting oneself with the whole of mankind. It is astounding and humbling–never to be dismissed or forgotten.

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Sunlight on the Acropolis; photo by Kathy Lynard, July 2016

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Pure majesty, July 2016

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Old Museum on Acropolis site; July 2016

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The flag of Greece flies proudly on the Acropolis, July 2016

Greece in July is hot! I quickly learned that 40 Celsius is 104 degrees Farenheit! It doesn’t matter that the heat is dry; I found myself wilting in the sun. Rather than walk, we decided to hop on a tour bus to take us around the city — a wise and refreshing choice.

Athens is a mixture of old and new; classic and modern. The contrast of stately Grecian columns with flat, square, concrete residential buildings is glaring. Sadly, graffiti covers many statues and buildings, detracting from their elegance. Churches are everywhere, as are motorcycles. Driving in the twisting, narrow streets is a nightmare. Several times, my GPS and Google Maps were as lost as I was!

Athens City

Athens City, July 2016

Many families in all parts of Greece have apartments in Athens. Work, school, and the need to conduct business in the city has created a massive urban sprawl, radiating from the city center into the foothills.

Overlooking Athens, July 2016

Overlooking Athens, July 2016

Monastiraki Square, in the center of Athens and adjacent to the Plaka, is a lively place to spend an evening. Our friends, Gregory Kontos and Giannis Michalakakos, met us for drinks and dinner. The rooftop restaurant gave us a breathtaking view.

Drinks at dusk, Monastariki Square. l-r: Kathy Lynard, Giannis Michalakakos, Gregory Kontos, Carol Kostakos Petranek, Andrew Soper, July 2016

Drinks at dusk, Monastariki Square. l-r: Kathy Lynard, Giannis Michalakakos, Gregory Kontos, Carol Kostakos Petranek, Andrew Soper, July 2016

And just when you think it can’t get any more beautiful, night falls on the city.

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View of the Acropolis from Monastiraki Square, July 2016

 

Research and Remembrances, Part 1

After months of preparation and then returning from a fulfilling and fruitful trip to Greece, it’s time to start documenting and sharing what I’ve seen and learned. Where to start? So many experiences and memories! I’ll devote several posts to this trip and my research. I have many photos which I will eventually tag and upload to the “Photos” tab at the top of this blog.

Part of the joy of traveling is sharing the experience with others. I was delighted that my daughter, Kathryn Lynard Soper, and her daughters, Elli (age 21) and Christine (age 15) were able to join me. Kathy is 100% Greek, as both her father’s family and my family are from neighboring villages in Sparta. Our trip started in Athens with visits to the Acropolis, many stops in the Plaka, and lots of kitten-sightings.

Christine, Kathy, Elli Soper at the Acropolis, July 2014

Christine, Kathy, Elli Soper at the Acropolis, July 2014

Christine, Elli, Kathy at the Plaka, July 2014

Christine, Elli, Kathy at the Plaka, July 2014

Elli, Kathy, Carol at the Acropolis

Elli, Kathy, Carol at the Acropolis

Elli, Kathy at the Acropolis

Elli, Kathy, Christine at the Acropolis

It is a joyful feeling to be able to share new experiences with those you love! For the girls, especially, taking them to the land of their ancestors is especially rewarding for me. As each succeeding generation melts into American society and culture, another layer of tradition and culture peels away. Just the sights and smells of Athens will be with them forever!

After three days in Athens, we headed to Nafplion (also spelled Naplion, Navplion) which was the first capital of Greece after the 1821 Revolution. It is a quaint and lovely port city, and we stayed in a charming hotel reminiscent of the American Victorian era. The problem was that we couldn’t find the hotel, so I stopped to ask a policeman and he escorted us through town to our lodgings!

Christine, Kathy, Elli, Carol at Nafplion, July 2014

Christine, Kathy, Elli, Carol at Nafplion, July 2014

Police escort to our hotel, Nafplion

Police escort to our hotel, Nafplion

Town Square, Nafplion

Town Square, Nafplion

We enjoyed our stay in this lovely city. We spent an afternoon at the beach in nearby Tolo, then headed to Sparta and the villages of our ancestors.