Our friends at the General State Archives of Greece, Sparta office, have a spacious new office. It is located at on the 3rd floor of 61 Gkortsologou, 1/2 block from the Dimarcheion and the plateia, in the same building as the Dimos.
The interior is bright and airy, and there is room for cabinets and storage. One section has a raised platform with a large, flat screen monitor. Visitors can sit at a conference table and have space to work comfortably.
In-person researchers will complete a form to ask for specific information. Those who are distant can send an email to: mail at gak.lak.sch.gr (use the@ sign). Genealogical information can be accessed specifically for direct-line ancestors, due to European privacy laws (GDPR). Please be sure you state your relationship to the family whose information you are requesting. The staff will conduct the research for you, and send you an email with digital images of the information requested. Materials that can be requested include Male Registers, Town Registers, Notary Files and many others. When you ask the staff what you are seeking, they will direct you to the appropriate records.
I am extremely grateful to the archivists, Pepi Gavala and Michail Sovolos, and their kind and helpful staff for all the assistance they have given me over the years. Without their help, I would not have been able to write two books about my grandparents and their ancestors. I donated copies to the archive office and hope others will do the same. Having these volumes in the land where my ancestors originated is one way to ensure that their story can be found and studied by future researchers.
I wish the staff much happiness in their new venue, and continued success in the years to come. Συγχαρητήρια και τις καλύτερες ευχές!
Picturesque Gytheio is much more than just a lovely port village. Considered the port of Sparta (located 47 km south of the city), its location on the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese made it an ideal departure point for emigrants leaving Lakonia in the early 20th century.
Greeks who were seeking opportunities abroad needed to get to major ports in southern Europe: Piraeus, LeHavre, Hamburg, Boulogne-sur-Mer, Cherbourg and others. They would walk or take donkey carts from their homes to a local port. From there, they would board a small boat (caique) which would transport them to one of the transatlantic departure ports. Gytheio was the closest port to those from southeast Lakonia, yet it drew people from all regions of the Peloponnese.
All four of my grandparents left their villages near Sparta and came to America between 1897-1920. Although I have their ship manifests from their major ports of departures, I don’t know how they got from their homes to that port (how wish I knew!). I surmise that at least some of them traveled first to Gytheio.
The name, Gythion (Γύθειον) means “Γη των θεών” (land of gods); γύον (γη) = land (location) and θεός = god (according to an ancient legend, this refers to the gods Herakles and Apollo). A port city from ancient times, it was founded by the Spartans in the 5th century BC and played a crucial role in Sparta’s maritime, commerce and trade activities. Shipbuilding was a major industry. Throughout the eras, the port prospered as it served as a crucial sea route and harbored ships that crossed the Mediterranean. See this reference for further historical information.
Along with the rest of Greece, Gytheio eventually came under Frank, Venetian and Ottoman rule. The Venetians fortified the town and constructed a castle to protect it from pirate raids.
The tower of Tzanetakis, built 1829
Today, Gytheio teems with tourists and natives who seek its beauty and its sea. Nearby beaches such as Mavrovrouni are filled in summer months.
When in Gytheio, I can’t help but wonder what it was like for my grandparents who left their villages. Their journey must have been both exciting and terrifying, and I honor them for their determination and bravery. I come to Gytheio not only to decompress and relax, but also to view the sea that my ancestors may have experienced for the very first time on their journey to a new land.
I have long admired the creativity of Dimitra Colomvakou, mosaic artist and founder of Mosaic Arts Greece. Whenever I am in Sparta, I stop by her studio and purchase unique and beautiful gifts for my family.
Dimitra’s studio is on Kostantinou Palaiologou 132 in Sparta. It is a delightful outdoor oasis of beauty, nature and peace in the midst of the city. Located in the vicinity of Ancient Sparta and the statue of Leonidas, its cool, leafy canopy and sparkling artifacts beckon both tourists and natives to step inside.
The garden studio draws in people who admire its beauty and peace
In 2019, I wrote a post about Dimitra, her studio and her work. Ever since my first visit, I have wanted to take a workshop. Today, I did. Dimitra had materials ready for me when I arrived. She is a patient and caring person, and she both assisted and instructed me.
Dimitra loves her work!
Although Dimitra teaches and works in many mediums, she recommended that, as a first-timer, I start with a pebble mosaic. After looking at several patterns, I chose one that resembles ocean waves. Dimitra used carbon paper to trace a pattern on a white backdrop composed of fiberglass mesh.
The base, with the pattern drawn
Mosaics can be created on any surface: stone, wood, glass, metal, marble; and she works on them all. Specific glues and adhesives are used on specific surfaces. Because my base was fiberglass, we used “thin set,” a type of mortar-based adhesive used in tile work. Dimitra colored the adhesive to blend with the stones I would use. She started with black, putting the adhesive in a pastic bag and cutting a corner so it could be manipulated, like adding piping to decorate a cake.
Dimitra puts the adhesive into a plastic bag, then cuts the corner.
And then the creative process began. Dimitra instructed me on how to “pipe” the adhesive onto the pattern. I then used tweezers to grab pebbles and set them into the adhesive. Yes, every pebble was chosen for its size, shape and color, and carefully placed onto the pattern!
Every single stone is set in place, precisely!
To say I was hyper-focused is not an understatement. As a quilter, I have learned to use shades of color and texture to add interest to projects so I did this pattern a bit differently than others. I added spots of color throughout the wave, rather than making it monochromatic.
Instead of using just one color pebble, I varied the hues.
For three hours, I chose every stone and decided which color and shape to put into the pattern. The time passed so quickly that I didn’t even stop to take a drink of water!
I loved this creative process!
Although seeing a work in progress gives you an idea of how it will look, I was truly surprised to see the finished product. I like it! The tiny pieces of colored stone, which I carefully placed around the dark ones, were picked up by the terra-cotta borders and caused the waves to “pop.”
The finished piece!
Trying something new is one of the joys of life. Every experience adds to our personal mosaic and enhances our creative perspective.
Dimitra’s studio is a must-see, and must-do, for anyone visiting Sparta. The gifts you bring home, and the ones you may make, will be unlike any you would purchase in a tourist shop. Follow her Mosaic Arts Greece website, Facebook page and Instagram which display her products that can be ordered online and shipped anywhere.
When a family moves from one village to another, the natives of their new “horio” may refer to them as the people from [name of their former village]. That is exactly what happened to my third great-grandfather, Panagiotis Zarafonitis. Sometime in the mid-1800s, he left his mountain village of Zarafona and settled in the fertile plains of Sparta, specifically the village of Sklavochori (now part of Amykles).
One of several mountain paths that the Zarafonitis family could have walked to settle in the valley.
He became known as Zarafonitis, the man from Zarafona. His original surname is unknown. The Zarafonitis family of Amykles claims that there were two Zarafona families who settled in Amykles: Mazis and Tountas. Another comment was that the Maltezos family of Zarafona also came to Amykles. Because the migration most likely occurred after the Revolution of 1821 ended, around 1830–before records were created by the modern Greek state–the name will have to remain a mystery.
The village of Zarafona
Zarafona, also known as Kallithea, is most likely ancient and surely pre-dates Byzantium. Its church, Enniamera tis Panagias / Εννιάμερα της Παναγίας (Nine Days of the Virgin Mary) was built in the 10th century.
The Byzantine Church of Zarafona
The village has a castle which towers at the top of a mountain. “According to an inscription found on the west external wall, the castle was constructed in the period that the Despotate of Moreas was governed by Theodoros II Paleologos (1407-1448). Therefore it was a construction of the first half of the 15th century, part of the effort of the Byzantines to confront the Ottoman threat.”1 The short video below shows both the castle and the surrounding countryside.
With the castle as a fortress, one can conclude that the Zarafonites were activey engaged in thwarting the Ottoman incursion into their territory. It’s rather thrilling to imagine Panagiotis Zarafonitis and others in active opposition to this threat, and their jubilation when the Ottomans were defeated.
It makes sense that, after their freedom was secured, Panagiotis did exactly as so many others — go down from the mountain to settle in the fertile valley.2 I know he was there by 1849, the approximate year of the birth of my second great grandmother, Giannoula, in Sklavochori.3
Park adjacent to the plateia
Zarafona is an agricultural community. Crops such as olives, citrus fruits, vegetables, and grapes are cultivated. The region has a long history of wine production. The village is peaceful and the neat gardens and livestock give it a homey atmosphere.
Sheep, chickens and gardens make Zarafona feel comfortable and homey
Traditional stone houses; some whitewashed and some natural stone. All neatly maintained
There are two signs on this well. Left: Major donors for drilling, 1995; Panagiotis P. Ferizis; Ilias Legakis Right: Gift from the Zarafona Women’s Syllogos and Leonida Nikia, 1-5-2013
Another well, adjacent to the church, in memory of Leonida K. and [?] Nik. Oikonomopoulos
War Memorial 1912-1940: S.K. Voudouris; P I. Ferizis ;I. D. Chrysikos; I. V. Maltezos; P. G. Maltezos; G. N. Voudouris; I. P. Giakas; P. Ch. Farlekas; K. D. Stamatopoulos; N. Th. Oikonomopoulos; I. H. Douvris; Ef. Lochagos; N. G. Ferizis; S. P. Maltezos; P. V. Flogos; I. P. Manousopoulos 1940-1949: P. D. Karakitsos; G. I. Plagakis; Chr. P. Katranis; D. I. Nikias; E. P. Oikonomopoulos; P. G. Danas; I. G. Koumoutzis; G. Th. Vlachos; I. P. Oikonomakis; H. I. Danas
I thank Yanni Lambrinakos for taking me to see this village. His knowledge of the area and its people have helped me better understand this branch of my ancestral roots.
1Source: Kastrologos 2For migration patterns after the Revolution, see this post. 3Giannoula’s marriage record to Dimitrios Nikolaos Zacharakis on April 18, 1869 states her residence as Sklavochori. I estimate her birth at 20 years prior to marriage. Metropolis of Sparta, Marriage Index Book Book: Sparta, 1866-1872; Year: 1869; Entries: 88-94 Entry #89 License Date: April 18, 1869 Marriage Date: not given Groom: Dimitrios Zacharakis, no father listed; residence: Theologos Bride: Giannoula Zarafonitou; father: P., residence: Sklavochori Church Name: not given First marriage for both bride and groom Photographed at the Metropolis of Sparta in Sparta, Greece by Carol Kostakos Petranek, July 2017
“Do you know how the first roads in the mountains were built before explosives were used?” my cousin, Panos. asked. “They loaded a donkey with a heavy pack, then watched where it walked up the mountain. Where it went, they cleared a path.” Over time, these passages widened to become dirt roads.
To those of us living in countries where governments construct and maintain roads, it comes as quite a surprise to learn that this is not always the case in parts of rural Greece. For many villages situated on mountainsides, roads are financed and constructed by local communities. Especially in the early years of the 20th century, villagers often provided the manual labor: they moved rocks and removed tree stumps, cleared the roadbed, and leveled and smoothed the ground.
Well into the later years of the 20th century, the roads to many Spartan villagers were primitive, at best. If there was pavement, it was worn and littered with rocks. When I was in Agios Ioannis, Sparta, in 1996, I wanted to visit Anavryti, situated at the top of a mountain. My husband and I got in our rental car and started up the narrow, rocky, switchback road. We had barely started the upward climb when we saw a dump truck coming down towards us. With no space for both vehicles, we put the car in reverse. Backing down a winding mountain road was terrifying!
The road to Anavryti as seen from Agios Ioannis
That panicked moment was my first experience with the mountain roads of Sparta. Now, I love driving them. Ascending the Taygetos and Parnon ranges, magnificent vistas appear. I hit the brakes, put the car in park, and get out to take photos. The steeper the climb, the lovelier the view.
Looking down to Sparta from the road to Barsinikos
Joanne Dimitrakakis, a native of Barsinikos/Taygeti, owns and operates a beautiful guesthouse, Arxoniko Taygeti, high upon a towering mountain of Taygetos.
Arxontiko Taygeti, guest house of Joanne Dimitrakakis
To get there, one must traverse the road to Barsinikos which winds back and forth, ever ascending upwards. The beauty of the road changes with the seasons.
Before 1975, there was no car road from Mystras to Barsinikos; all that existed was a dirt trail. Three men from the village, who had emigrated to America, returned to their ancestral home and concluded there should be a road to Barsinikos. In August 1975 they organized a syllogos (committee) based in Mystras. A board with officers was elected, and the newly elected members wrote a constitution and decided on the formal name of the committee: Progressive Syllogos Taygeti Mystras.
The primary goals of the syllogos were:
To collect money to open the car road from Mystras to the village of Taygeti/Barsinikos
To improve the village and the surrounding environment of Taygeti
Maintain the full cooperation of the community officers until the end of the project
Plan and execute any other work in conjunction with the scope of the project
It was decided that the work would begin on September 2, 1975. The plan was approved by the committee.
The syllogos arranged the practical and procedural matters for road construction. Their discussions included the types of machinery needed, such as two bulldozers and an air compressor, and the workers to be hired. Preserving the natural landscape and the village was always a top priority. The syllogos received the full cooperation of the community leaders for both the road project and whatever additional projects would arise.
The syllogos was responsible for accepting and tracking donations received for the construction project. Money came from organizations and individuals in many countries including Greece, America and as far as Australia. Donations ranged from 1,000 to 67,000 drachmas. In total, almost 315,000 drachmas were initially collected in one month (by October 1975). Fundraising events at panegyris (village festivals) and other activities such as raffles, brought in additional money.
The path of the road was decided and land was donated by those whose property was to be accessed. If a landowner refused to allow passage, the road had to be routed around his property. Thus, the final product has some interesting twists and turns.
The construction took 2-1/2 years, and the road opened in 1977. The syllogos had enough funds left over and people kept donating money, so other projects were completed. Specifically, all the churches in and around the village were repaired and restored: Agios Nikolaos, Agios Dimitris, Agios Georgios, Koimisi tis Theotokou, Metamorphosis of Sotirios, Prophet Ilias, and the monastery of Zoodohos Pigi its the surrounding buildings. In addition, the school in Barsinikos, which had closed in 1968 due to lack of students, was restored with plans to use it as a museum.
Agios Georgios after its restoration. It is the primary church in Barsinikos
Unfortunately, further details of the road project do not exist. It would be so interesting to know how the work progressed, the problems that arose and how they were resolved. But for now, we can thank the syllogos for giving us a car road to access the villages and the natural beauty of this section of Taygetos mountains. Today, the road continues to be maintained by the local government.
Bulldozer clearing the road on June 14, 2023
I so appreciate the memories and assistance of Joanne Dimitrakakis in writing this post. (I love that we are distantly related through our Dimitrakakis families!)
Spartan Roots (Σπαρτιατικές Ρίζες) 