The monoliths jut forth from the earth as some type of interstellar phenomenon–sheer rock, gray, and utterly barren. Bereft of even a sliver of living greenery, it seems impossible that life could exist in this stone forest. But it does. Since the 11th century, Meteora has been a haven of monasteries, retreats and hermit caves for Orthodox monks.1 The name Metéora (Greek: Μετέωρα) can be translated as: “suspended rocks”, “suspended in the air” or “in the heavens above”. Built on the pinnacles of the pillars, Meteora draws people worldwide. Next to Athens, it is the second most visited site in Greece.
Nestled in the plains of historic Thessaly, Meteora is a phenomenon of nature. The area is mentioned in the writings of Homer and other classical historians. “Fine mosaics, coins, inscriptions, vessels, sarcophagi and small works of art…dating from the Roman period have been found.”2
Monks built monasteries on top of the rock formations in order to be closer to God. The earliest monks lived as hermits in caves, which still are visible in the forbidding rock. How they ascended, descended and maintained life in that environment is one of the marvels of human determination.
There are six monasteries that are active today and open to the public: The Transfiguration, St. Varlaam, Holy Trinity, St. Stephen the Protomartyr, St. Nicholas Anapafsas and Rousanou. Sixteen others are currently uninhabited and in partial ruins. I booked guided tours for Saturday evening and Sunday morning, visiting three monasteries during each excursion. These are beautiful complexes with gardens, churches and libraries. Although the tour bus drops us off at the entrance, there are long walks up steep paths and many steps to reach the front door of the monasteries–one had 115 steps and another had 325!
The first buildings in the monastery complexes were built at various times, from the 11th to the 15th centuries.3 As more monks came to Meteora monasteries, additional buildings were added to the complexes. To build the earliest churches, monks carried supplies on their backs while scaling the rocks. Our tour guide explained that one solitary monk carried materials on his back for 27 years!
To haul materials, food, water and people, a system of pulleys and ropes was devised. Rope baskets, also known as net bags or “kouvouklia,” were the most efficient method of transporting necessities–and people–from the valley. Rickety wood ladders were also devised and used. Later, metal crates replaced the net bags. Today, goods are transported by vehicles.
The monasteries’ gardens were filled with brilliant flowers, beautiful horticultural designs and bounteous vegetables.
Meals were prepared in kitchens such as the one below in the Great Meteoron Monastery.
Each monastery is uniquely different in design, layout and topography. The exterior courtyards and alleys are meticulously maintained. There are cupolas and outdoor shrines. Splashes of color from flowerpots and paintings bring relief to the starkness of the stone buildings and backdrops.
The monk population has fluctuated over the past 100 years. Some monasteries have just a couple of monks in residence; others have more. Their living quarters are plain, and their earthly possessions few–limited to some clothing and books. I cracked open a door to snap these photos.
Monastery complexes can have more than one church. The spectacular icons, murals and frescoes are vibrantly painted and depict scenes of Jesus Christ, His Apostles, events in their lives and in Christian history. The church interiors, whether large or small, are elaborate with sparkling, ornate crystal chandeliers and meticulously polished wood, gold, and brass.
At the Great Meteoron Monastery, I was thrilled to see an iconographer at work. His studio was small but well equipped. I was surprised that he had enough light with only one small window. Watching him craft the icons was fascinating.
Although all six monasteries had libraries, the Great Meteoron also housed a museum. Its historical codices, parchments and artifacts were breathtaking. They testify of the dedication of the monks in safeguarding items so precious to the Orthodox faith.
Visiting the monasteries, exploring their libraries and museums, and learning of their histories enhanced my appreciation of those who have, and continue to, preserve the history of Orthodox Christianity. When I stepped inside these building that are hundreds of years old, a sense of permanence and timelessness swept over me. I understand how the faith of my ancestors kept them rooted and hopeful during their most difficult times. I am grateful they passed their faith in God to me.
If you get to Meteora, be sure to take the sunset tour. Seeing the monasteries silhouetted against the fading light will cement this experience into your soul. It will stay with you forever.
1A monk is a man who is a member of a religious order and voluntarily leaves a human community to lives in a monastery. There are some monasteries inhabited by females who are known as nuns.
2Provatakis, Theocharis M., Meteora, History of the Monasteries and Monasticism, page 10; Athens: Michalis Toubis Editions.
3Details about the six working monasteries can be found here.
Spartan Roots (Σπαρτιατικές Ρίζες) 