The southern Peloponnese is a study of construction by stone.The hardy people of this region took the least of God’s creations and formed uniquely beautiful edifices: churches, homes, buildings, wells, towers. Boxy and square, tall and narrow, the stone buildings of this region belie what may be inside. A perfect example is the Faneromeni Monastery, the first stop on a tour of Mani led by Papa Georgiou of Sparta last Saturday.
Without a road sign, one would never imagine that this unassuming building was a monastery.
An inscription reveals that it was built in 1079 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was subsequently renovated in 1322-23 by Emperor Andronicus Palaeologus (Andronikos II Palaiologos). After the renovation, additional alterations were made which formed the building as it is seen today. The monastery was inhabited by nuns; the last one died a few years ago.
The interior of the church is stunning; the frescoes are captivating.
The frescoes have been preserved from three different periods: 11th century, 1322-23 and early 17th century.
Papa Georgiou, accompanied by Father Konstandinos of Aeropolis, chanted a full liturgy service. Their voices sounded even more poignant when surrounded by the archaic faces on the walls.
Having never been inside a monastery, I was curious and explored both inside and out. There is a central courtyard, a kitchen, dining area, and rooms for sleeping.
This is the building where the nuns lived. As expected, the interior was “spartan.” But there was a corner cabinet which housed unexpected worldly treasures.
To me, the most amazing surprise of Faneromeni was its cave, situated to the left of the monastery, down a flight of stone steps.
Following the curve of the hill, I saw the opening, stepped inside and was stunned at what I saw–a mini-sanctuary complete with icons, candles and all required to hold an Orthodox service.
I marvel at the ingenuity and faith that created this sacred place! I stood inside for a long time, with so many questions and so many thoughts. It was the Orthodox Church which sustained the Greek peoples through 400 years of Ottoman rule. The astounding number of churches and monasteries in Greece is a testament to this fact.
The monastery grounds overlook the sea and provide a setting of tranquil beauty. It is easy to understand why this particular spot was chosen to house a building dedicated to God.
Hi Carol, wonderful post, thoroughly enjoyed reading it. I’m returning to Greece next year and taking my own young children to show them where their maternal grandparents were born. Essentially, near Sparta, though I understand my father’s ancestors came from Mani. Sadly, both my parents have passed and I wish I had asked more questions. I hope to find out more from living relatives, but I’d also love to see a local genealogist or such office in/around Sparta. Do you have any contacts or can you advise where I should look?
Separately, I understand that surnames from Mani may end in -akos or -eas. Mine is the latter.
Love your post, your photos, your sentiment.
Georgia
I’m visiting Greece for the first time next week. I found the village, hamlet really, that my grandfather left Greece from well over 100 years ago. It’s named Skyfianika and is located about 25kms west of Gythio. I can’t wait. Three days in Athens, then south through Sparta to Gythio. A day rooting around in Skyfianika and five days in Gythio. Then back to Athens for a few days before flying back to the US.
So I have a question, what should I do about bringing cash? Do we bring dollars? Do we bring travelers checks? Is there even still a thing? Or do we just use ATMs there? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Dennis – I just sent you an email. Safe travels!
I love your posts. They encompass a wide range of feeling. Thank you
Thank you for your kind words! I appreciate your comments and thanks for reading my blog 🙂
Wonderful. Thank you.
Thank you!
Carol;enjoyed reading about searching your Ancestry. At the Archives in Sparti; what have you found about Hellenic-Genealogy from Sparti?